Cabo de la Vela

On our way to Cabo, many Colombians would ask us why were we going there, if there’s nothing up there. It seems like for many people is just an almost empty piece of land. But that’s exactly what many travelers seem to be looking for, and why Cabo de la Vela is considered an amazing spot to visit. Cause Colombians are absolutely right, there’s nothing in Cabo, only the desert, home of the Wayuu people, the indigenous people that live in that area, where you can only find the little houses that are almost all hostels for the tourists. The comments we heard about the Wayuu while being in Palomino weren’t the nicest, tagging them as rude and aggressive. Well we found a bit of everything.

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The way to get there is a bit of a pain. 3 buses and a total of around 7 hours, but during the last ride one can start enjoying the views of the desert, the emptiness and all the cactus around.

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When we arrived to Uribia, the city where to catch the last car that takes you to Cabo, at the very moment of opening the door, a guy standing a centimeter from my face started yelling at me:

  • WER YAR FRON??? WER YAR FRON?????

  • Sorry what?

  • QUE WER YAR FRON MAN??? WER YAR FRON??

  • I’m Spanish, maybe we could switch to that…

When hearing me speak Spanish he ignored me and moved to Kasia, to scream a bit more at her WER YAR FRON????

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He was the middle man that finds you a car, a completely unnecessary figure as all they do is go to the car that’s already parked few meters away from where we were, and tell the driver to take us. We argued a bit to get the price down, closing it at 12k instead of 15k, yes, not much of a win but better than nothing :). And because of that the crazy guy, who seemed to communicate through screams rather than talking, started yelling at me in Spanish

  • WHY SO HARD MAN???? WHY SO HARD??? IT’S 15, 15!!!

  • No, 12

  • 15 MAN, 15 MAN!!!!!!

  • No, 12

  • WHY SO HAAAAARD??!! 15!!!!

  • No, 12

If the driver hadn’t intervened, we would have gone for hours like this. I had a lot of fun listening to the guy yelling and shaking, he couldn’t stay put, he had to constantly move and scream.

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We arrived to Cabo when the sun started its way down, went for a nice swim in this huge swimming pool that is the sea here and sat down to enjoy the sunset while eating something. At that moment, few wayuu women arrived and took a sit right next to us to show us their bags and handcrafts for sale. They didn’t speak Spanish, and what they would do is just scream something at us, with a really not friendly face on, make some fast gestures with one of the bags, and when we’d say no thank you, some would look down and spit on the floor. It was a bit weird situation. We were there, in front of our tent, eating a bit of bread, and those women would constantly scream at us to buy something, or point at some of our things and then make a gesture for us to give it to them.

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In the area, the number of abandoned dogs was pretty high. This happens all over the coast, we’ve seen so many abandoned dogs in the different places we’ve been so far that it’s quite shocking.

So there we were, a bit annoyed by the women pointing stuff inside our tent and the dogs biting the corners, we decided that the one night we promised our self to sleep in a hammock to try that out would be this one. So we packed our stuff and moved up to the floor where 40 hammocks were hanging. In a nutshell, Kasia slept like a baby and I couldn’t sleep even a second. All the hammocks were simply too small, they were rather devices to check my flexibility, to see if i could sleep with my head close to my toes, than a place to rest. No more hammocks for me. We moved then the next day to another place where we could sleep in our tent for 10k.

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In Cabo there are few attractions to see at a walking distance. One is called Pilon de azucar, an incredibly nice beach an hour and a half away from the place we were staying. It has a little pike, where you can go up and enjoy some amazing views. The wind up there was crazy, it felt like if you would jump and open your arms you would literally start flying.

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The walk there and back is also pretty nice, as you feel like being in the middle of the desert, with nothing around you more than sand and this crazy beautiful landscape.

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Another spot to visit is the lighthouse, where next to it there’s a small beach. We skip these ones, as the last afternoon/evening/night we decided to stay in a bench in front of our place, first enjoying the crazy tricks the kite surfers were pulling right in front of us, and later sharing a beer with 2 Chilean guys, an Argentinian girl and a French girl, whom all had already traveled around most part of South America and had plenty of places and stories to share. We had a really good time in the desert, it feels really good to keep on collecting good moments.

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